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Dining

Thai-riffic

Beauregard's Thai Room delivers quality, value and atmosphere
Martin Gravely

In its first 10 years of existence, downtown restaurant Beauregard's Thai Room has weathered a transition from New Orleans-style fare (thus the name Beauregard's) to Thai cuisine...

Several things have remained consistent though - good food, great prices, a beautiful courtyard (easily my favorite dining atmosphere in Richmond) and, most importantly, the presence of lone remaining partner Suwit "David" Roygulchareon, who hails from Bangkok, Thailand, and exudes an obvious passion for his native cuisine.

It was wintertime when I paid two recent visits, so I settled for staring longingly through the window at my beloved courtyard. Fortunately, I didn't miss it too badly, since the back dining room provided comfort aplenty.

One day for lunch, my wife, Lisa, and I indulged in the spring-roll appetizer ($2.95), satay plate ($6.75), guay teaw tom yum ($8.25) and generous scoops of homemade ice cream ($4.50) for dessert.

The spring rolls, filled with cabbage and carrot, were fried to a wonderful, golden crispness and served with a syrupy sweet-and-sour dipping sauce. The two worked quite well together, although we would have preferred less sweetness and more sourness in the sauce.

The satay entree provided skewered, grilled beef and chicken breast with the customary peanut sauce ? a thick paste with a hint of heat. Along with the tender meat came a generous helping of rather plain yellow rice and cucumber salad featuring carrot, red onion and a dressing that very closely resembled the spring-roll dip.

The guay teaw tom yum was loaded with small shrimp. Offering plentiful rice noodles swimming in a sweet lemongrass-shrimp broth, as well as scallions, bean sprouts and ground peanuts, this entree was warm, satisfying and delicious. It struck me as the perfect Thai comfort food. The only disappointment was the near absence of heat. Though it was only given a one-chili-pepper rating (out of a possible three), I did expect more "punch" than I got.

The ice creams were terrific. At the suggestion of our waitress, we chose the medley of coconut and banana. While the former was chock-full of grated meat, the latter came studded with large chunks of walnut. The day's wintry weather couldn't deter us from gobbling up these sweet, frozen delights.

When I returned a few days later for dinner, I sampled tom kha gai ($3.95), vegetable pad thai ($8.25) and tia maria cake ($4.25).

The first course - chicken soup in a lime-coconut-milk broth - was well stocked with chunks of meat, straw mushrooms, and red and green onions. A touch of chili spiciness made this soup even more enticing.

The vegetable pad thai - a substantial dish featuring perfectly cooked rice noodles lightly coated with savory broth - was dressed up with fresh broccoli, carrot, zucchini, green onion, bean sprouts and peanuts. The veggies were only lightly cooked, keeping them from being limp.

The tia maria cake can be best described as a wedge of fudge that should satisfy anyone's hankering for chocolate. A thick raspberry coulis coated this filling dessert, which needless to say is not a traditional Thai offering.

The Thai Room has yet to let me down with its appealing atmosphere and delicious food. Now come on, spring, so I can hit that courtyard!

 

Sourced : Richmond Magazine;